[HOW TO] Clayless & Hideless Setup for Burrowing Desert Scorplings

[HOW TO] Clayless & Hideless Setup for Burrowing Desert Scorpions

Introduction:
This guide documents how I have raised desert specimens from 2.instar - 4/5.instar, in a simple deli-container without the use of any hide (e.g. any shelter for the scorpion) or clay mixture for the substrate in order to support frequent burrowing behavior in certain desert scorpion species. Every keeper might have different ways of raising their specimen, hence, whichever methods that worked for the keeper is fine.

Target specimens:
This guide are only used for desert scorplings from 2.instar juveniles up till 4.instar sub-adults due to their shorter molting intervals and they have more tolerance towards the humidity gained from the light misting (during the usage of this method). Once they have attained 5.instar, they will be shifted to a regular dry setup with the practice of a less frequent water provision as mentioned in my [ASA] Desert Scorpions' Caresheet.

Choosing the correct size of deli-container:
With regards to the size of the deli-container, it is fine as long as the diameter of the container is at least three times bigger than the full length of the specimen.

Preparation for the enclosure:
1. Preparing the deli-container. Air ventilation is crucial to prevent mycosis:



An ideal lid would be wire-meshed (samples of deli-containers with wire-mesh lids shown below):



2. Fill the bottom of the container with about 1.5cm depth of fine sand



3. Add another 1.5cm later of coco fibre/ coco peat



4. Top view of the enclosure



5. Proceed with some light misting for a single side of the enclosure (e.g. 50% of the substrate's surface area) and place the desert scorpling on the drier side of the substrate and proceed to close the lid and leave the scorpion alone.



6. Within a day or two, the scorpling would most likely burrowed it's way to the bottom of the enclosure, while the wet portion of the substrate's surface dries up gradually within 2-3 days from the previous "misting session". if it takes more then 3 days for the mist to go off, increase the ventilation or decrease the amount of mist you uses.



7. A weekly light mist provides the "glue" required to bond the burrow together. Notice that the moisture from the light misting only manages to penetrate the top layer. The bottom of the enclosure where the heavier sand resides in.. is dry.

At times, the scorpling within the substrate burrows extensively underground and closes up any "viewing window" that you may have from the outside of the container. Do not worry about the scorplings being trapped or suffocated within. If they can dig themselves in, most likely they can find their way out as well. Furthermore, the weight of the substrate on them is negligible.



8. Feeding routine for scorplings (2 to 5.instar). The frequency may be two or three times per week and the quantity is one feeder for each session. While the recommended size is half or no bigger than the mesosoma (body) length of the scorpion itself, the scorpion may taken down up to 1.5 times it's body size when its hungry. Recommended feeder is B.lateralis roach as they do not burrow. When offering cricket, the safer bet is to do a light headcrush and remove if it was not taken by the next day.



9. Occasionally, a burrow's entrance may be spotted!



10. Not such a good day for the unsuspecting B.lateralis roach which walks by the trap



11. A closer view on the successful ambush from below



12. When a scorpion start refusing food and leave the feeder untouched, it simply means that they are not hungry. A keeper should pay attention if their scorpion is reaching pre-molt stage and therefore, reduces the feeding frequency (e.g. from twice a week to once a week) or stop feeding entirely.

Now, this is the part which i like about B.lateralis roach best. You may always keep one B.lateralis roach "loitering" at the substrate surface, if your scorpling is hungry, she has the access to food. When your scorpling is not hungry (e.g. preparing for a molt), the B.lateralis roach will never burrow inwards to attack the scorpling in her vulnerable state.



13. Closing the burrow's entrance to prepare themselves for the incoming molt



14. Wootz! Your baby is one rank up the ladder of instar



15. The exo-skeleton



16. The freshly molted scorpion which will be moving on in her captive lifecycle



17. FAQ

Q: if i add the coco fiber on top of the sand should i press down the coco fiber or just scatter it?

A: when you are adding the fresh layer of coco fiber on top of the sand, it is suppose to be dry, hence, they is no need to pack it down. After the layers are done, light misting on 50% of the substrate surface would provide the moisture needed to penetrate part of the substrate to a certain level. Do note that, it's "easier to add moisture than to remove". Hence, misting should be done as and when required, and, gradually

Q: after misting 50% of the coco fiber, where would the scorpion burrow? on the dry substrate or the the wet substrate?

A: They'll usually burrow through the moist portion of the substrate as the dry portion collapses easily.

Q: Is it safe to keep medically significant specimens (e.g. Leiurus quinquestriatus, Androctonus australis) in deli-containers?

A: It's recommended to utilise "double cage" to secure highly venoumous scorpion species


Q: What are concerns with regards to raising desert scorpions should I be aware of?

A: For a complete detailed guide on desert scorpion's husbandry (covering juvenile to adults specimens), please click on the following link:

[ASA] Desert Scorpions' Caresheet

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I will keep this guide updated along with my findings.

Regards,
GS